Adam – Page 2 – The Moa Hunters

2013 – Whitcombe Toaroha Circuit – Finally a win on the West Coast

2013/09/182019/08/06 by Adam, posted in 2013 - Toaroha

Moa Hunters on this trip: Adam, Paul, Richard, Chris, Magnus, Lewis

The trip

Day 1: Hokitika Gorge to Frew hut
Day 2: Frew hut to Bluff hut
Day 3: Bluff hut to Mungo hut
Day 4: Mungo hut to Top Toaroha hut
Day 5: Top Toaroha hut to Road end

For this adventure, the Toaroha – Whitcombe circuit, six Moa Hunters converged on Hokitika from all four corners of the country. Chris and Lewis came from Dunedin and Wellington respectively and joined the Christchurch crew for a Thursday evening road trip to Hokitika. Richard had flights booked from Auckland to Hokitika via Christchurch, scheduled to arrive 9.30am Friday.

Our route on topomap.co.nz

Our route on Google Maps

Above is an altitude profile of this route. Click to enlarge. Note: The horizontal scale divisions are roughly 1km. The transition from green to brown does not accurately represent the bushline. The horizontal scale to vertical scale is not 1:1

Day 1: Friday 22nd February – Hokitika Gorge to Frew Hut

Inside our cosy motel unit in Hokitika, the now ritual Moa Hunter enormous and extremely delicious breakfast of bacon, eggs, hash browns and mushrooms was expertly fried up. We did feel a little guilty that the room would likely smell strongly of that delicious fry up for some days to come. But it was worth it.

Looking out the window, we could see the day had dawned quite foggy in Hokitika. A text from Richard confirmed our fears that this might be a problem. His connecting flight from Christchurch had been delayed until Hokitika airport cleared. Bugger. Later that morning, worse news. Another text from Richard informed us that the flight had finally been cancelled.

Luckily he had sweet talked his way into sharing a ride with two West Coasters in a hire car. He would arrive in Hokitika just before lunchtime.

While not catastrophic, the delay meant we would have to walk fairly briskly to make the Frew hut before dark.

So, after whiling away an hour or two on a now brilliantly sun-drenched Hokitika beach and in a nearby park, Richard was collected and we were all finally together and ready to start the Moa Hunt proper.

Shortly before 1pm we were standing at the head of the Whitcombe track. The DOC sign listed Frew hut a mere 7 hours walk away. On the bright side, the weather looked great and the day didn’t involve any big climbs.

The initial section was an easy mix of grassy flats and rock hopping. By 2.30pm we had reached the cableway over the Hokitika River. One by one we were hand winched over the cold looking but strikingly sky blue water of the river in the little cablecar. Quite a fun diversion from walking.

From the cableway, the track fairly lazily follows the relatively open flats on the true left of the Whitcombe River, until it rounds a bluff and leads into the much steeper terrain that forms Collier Gorge. It turned out that the Gorge was a bit of a bastard.

Following the track as it cut its way through the tall trees and ferns, we suddenly hit what appeared to be a dead end. Behind us everything seemed well formed and well walked, but in front there appeared to be no obvious path. We quickly fanned out, pushing deeper into dense tangled vegetation looking for signs of the missing track. Looped fern roots grabbed and snagged our legs and packs making progress awkward and frustrating.

After half an hour of fruitless and fairly exhausting bush bashing, we all agreed this was no way to proceed, and backtracked. Walking back along the track we each found a way down to the river and from there rock hopped our way up the gorge until we met the track again some way further upstream. From our riverbed vantage point it was clear the reason the track had disappeared was the bank it was on had been scoured away by the river during recent heavy rains.

The Collier gorge track continued on the true left of the Whitcombe river snaking incessantly up and down through the short bush on the steep slope. As mentioned earlier it’s a bit of a bastard. Nevertheless, not long after 5pm we had reached a swing bridge across the Whitcombe, signaling the end of the gorge and the start of more open terrain.

A stop to catch our breath and nibble a few peanuts was rapidly cut short by the incredible swarms of sand-flies. Note: at the end of a long warm summers day, on the West Coast of NZ, next to a river, while lower than 500m, do not stop for longer than 2 minutes, no matter how tired you are, or how beautiful the spot, you will get eaten alive.

Less than an hour later we reached the large and relatively modern 10 bunk Frew hut, which meant we had completed the 7 hour section in just over 5 hours. We tip-toed in quietly as it appeared the hut might already be occupied by someone already tucked up for the night – however it was just a sleeping bag and gear left by a local possum hunter who had left his kit behind.

Moa Hunters lurking outside the Frew Hut

On paper, the day’s walk was an easy one. But the extra hour spent battling the bush through Collier Gorge had turned it into a long and difficult one. Conscious we had to make good time, we had pushed the pace a bit and only taken short breaks along the way.

Upon reaching the hut, it would be fair to say we were all pretty damn tired. Naturally we all blamed Richard for being late. Richard had been gracious enough to compensate for his late arrival by carrying an extra 1.5kgs of fruit cake that had been added to the trips food cache by Magnus’s good friend Johanna from Kowhitirangi. The fruit cake and steak that Paul had marinated and frozen 2 weeks prior were scoffed with great appreciation at the end of a good first day.

Day 2: Saturday 23nd February – Frew Hut to Bluff Hut

Frew hut is nestled in against the base of a hill where Frew creek flows into the Whitcombe River. We awoke there to an overcast day, but the cloud cover wasn’t threatening and we were all looking forward to a big day on the trail.

After downing a traditional Moa Hunter porridge breakfast, complete with the remnants of the fruit cake as a tasty condiment, we tidied the hut and were on the track by 8.30am. Not our earliest start, but not the latest either!

Since being deluged by rain in January, the West Coast had been in the grip of a “drought”. By their standards the land was parched, with barely any rain for a month or so. The effect of the drought was obvious on the track. Our previous experiences on the West Coast were of greasy rocks, slippery roots and generally demanding conditions. Well not so in 2013. Most places were quite dry and finding reliable footing was easy.

Consequently, we made pretty good progress on the first section of the track, which sidles along above Frew creek on the true right. The first 4km of the track gains altitude steadily, but not viciously. From the first footbridge the slope is increasing, and at the second, the track gets decidedly steeper as it follows the creek up a deep valley.

By 12.30pm the sun was shining brightly and we were just getting our noses out of the bushline, close to the final grunt which would take us to Frew Saddle and a well earned lunch break. The final ascent is a poled route through snowgrass, tussocks and our favourite grass of all, Spaniard (spear) grass.

Just below the saddle sits the Frew Biv, with a cheerful red door. Wired to the ground, it has two bunks and looks like a handy shelter to spend the night in if you got caught on the tops.

The saddle itself has fantastic views back down the Frew valley we had walked up, and in the other direction across the Hokitika river to Mount Tancred. We had a nice long lunch, after the 1200m climb, taking in the splendid vista. While we enjoyed the view, it was obvious to all that the track down to the Hokitika river looked brutally steep.

And it was. Not only was the way down steep, it was also fiendishly difficult to stay on the regularly walked paths as they were overgrown with tussock. This meant frequent wandering off the beaten trail, regular plunging into erosion holes hidden by tussock and painful encounters with Spaniard grass.

With the 200 vertical metre descent behind us we headed off in fairly murky conditions down the Hokitika river. Low cloud became mist, which wasn’t unpleasant, but did limit our enjoyment of the view a little.

The track follows the river for a bit over 3km where it leaves the riverbed. This marks the start of a fairly long sidle which climbs gently, but rapidly leaves the river which drops away below as it flows down the valley. Plenty of awkward roots and the ever present spaniard grass made this section a little more demanding than the earlier rock hop.

The final kilometre to Bluff hut is less of a sidle and follows a now very open track through sparse vegetation until the hut itself comes into view, perched impressively on a large rocky bluff with huge views in all directions. No surprises there really. But what a magic setting for a hut! And high enough to be above the sand-flys. Another bonus for Bluff hut is the location of the privy, whose open door faces unnervingly, directly across a gorge in the Hokitika river.

With an arrival time of 5.30pm, it had been a good solid days walk again, but we were all feeling in slightly better nick than the night before. A good number of generous stops during the day had kept our energy levels higher and allowed us to enjoy the day immensely.

Sitting on the deck in the late afternoon sun, we enjoyed the company of a troop of cheeky Kea that had swooped in to investigate the new arrivals. We were intrigued at their fearlessness as they hopped up and pecked at our boots and clothes, assessing them for vandalism opportunities. This would definitely not be a hut to leave items outside overnight!

Day 3: Sunday 23nd February – Bluff Hut to Mungo Hut

Sunday dawned beautifully sunny, with perfect views in all directions. We were ready to hit the trail a little earlier than usual at 8am. On such a lovely morning it was very tempting to just sit in the sun and soak it all in. But the Upper Mungo and its fabled hot springs was calling us. After the obligatory group photo outside the hut, we hefted our packs onto our backs and set off.

Fellow trampers with similarly dodgy knees will know that steep downhill sections with a heavy pack are no fun. Especially first thing in the morning when the old joints are a bit cold. Unfortunately that is how Day 3 started for the Moa Hunters.

View from the swingbridge — View from the Bluff swing bridge

After just a few minutes of easy walking, the track plummeted straight down a very steep hillside to the Bluff swing bridge some 500 vertical metres below where it spans the Hokitika river. Fortunately the way down wasn’t too slippery and there were plenty of available branches to use as handholds / brakes. Needless to say we made it down the 500 metres significantly quicker than we would have going up it! (We did note in the Hut visitors book that a group of over 60’s had come up that way. Hats off to them… impressive effort!)

From the swing bridge the track winds along on the true right of the Mungo River, dipping in and out of gullies where small streams come down and cut across the track. Cutting between two fairly high peaks, this section is fairly shaded and probably quite wet under normal conditions.

Our pace along the fairly easy 2.5 km stretch to Poet hut was perfect, and we arrived right on 12.30pm. Lunchtime! Like Bluff before it, Poet is in a magic setting. Nestled in a grassy clearing protected by surrounding trees, and just a stones throw from the river, it is an idyllic spot. Lunch was eaten sunning ourselves in front of the hut, enjoying the pleasant day. Again it would have been very easy to have stayed longer, but still the Mungo called us on.

Continuing from Poet hut, the track was much as before, skirting along the hillside further and further into deepest darkest Mungo. Once past the junction of the track that drops from Top Toaroha hut, the track climbs steadily, before dropping again quite steeply into the Mungo riverbed. What goes up must come down!

From here we clambered up the true right of the Mungo before crossing where the river cuts in against some bluffs. Then continued up the true left, regularly inhaling promising sulphurous smells in the air, no doubt venting from hidden hot springs along the river. The directions we had found online referred to the best hot springs being both above and below the confluence of the Brunswick Creek, on the true left of the Mungo, so we soldiered on.

Luckily it didn’t take us long to locate the fabled springs. We found them about 100m below the Brunswick and approximate 300m upstream from a large slip on the true left of the Mungo. From our experience the easiest way to find them is to walk along the river bed close to the edge of the bush, the best spring was found flowing out beside a large rock, right on the bush edge. The spring left tell-tale yellow-white sulphur deposit on the rocks. We also noted large mats of rubbery green algae growing in the hot sand and on the rocks. Without thinking it over too much, we downed packs and started an attempt to dig ourselves a bath where it flowed out of the bush.

We quickly discovered that keeping any of the hot water contained was going to be very difficult. It just soaked away into the coarse sand. Even our tarpaulin looked an unlikely solution.

Fortunately Lewis found the answer. He wandered down to the rivers edge and discovered that the hot water which was disappearing into the sand higher up the bank where we were digging was re-emerging next to the river. The perfect spot to make a bath. Hot and cold water readily available!

Half an hour later we had dug out a large bath area, walled it with rocks, and were blissfully soaking our weary carcasses in the hot rejuvinating waters of the Mungo… New Zealand’s (allegedly) most remote hot springs had been found again. Mission accomplished.

For the third time that day we were tempted to stay in one place longer than was wise. Reluctantly we left our hot bath and headed up the Mungo towards the confluence of with the Brunwick

Brunswick Stream can be difficult to cross, even in good weather, but we were fortunate. The lack of any real rainfall for weeks meant it was running relatively low. While still swift, the deepest point wasn’t much above knee height and not especially dodgy to cross.

A second much smaller hot pool was found a few tens of meters above the Bruswick, we were glad we had put the time and effort into the civil engineering works to develop the lower pools.

Soon after the Brunswick it is necessary to cross the Mungo again then Park Stream and storm the final climb up to Mungo hut.

That last push turned out to be fairly steep and something of a late afternoon grunt, but we made the hut by 6pm where we were more than happy to dump our packs and set about preparing a mighty Moa Hunter meal.

Day 4: Monday 24th February – Mungo Hut to Top Toaroha Hut

From the Mungo hut we had a few options. The boldest involved heading straight up Park stream into a difficult looking rocky fan, picking the correct gut and climbing out between Mt Bannatyne and Mt Chamberlain.

From the pleasant grassy doorstep of the Mungo Hut, it was difficult to assess exactly how difficult that route would be. At best it would be tricky. At worst, treacherous and fraught with hazards for a group of six, on what appeared to be a loose and frost shattered rocky slope.

Somewhat tempted as we were, in the end and after some debate, we opted for the more conservative option of backtracking down the Mungo and climbing to the Toaroha saddle and up to the Top Toaroha hut.

Saying a last goodbye to the awesome Mungo hut, we set off down the steep slope back to the Mungo River. Paul asked if anyone had signed the visitors book. No. We hadn’t….

Mungo hut is visited by a half a dozen groups per year at best. It was unthinkable to leave without adding our names to that list. Richard volunteered to run back up to the hut. The rest of us headed on down, carrying his pack for him as we went.

Regrouping at the river we filed off back to the start of the climb to Toaroha Saddle. And some climb it was. While never excessively steep, it never let up either.

For the first time in many days we passed some other travellers heading down the track. We said some hello’s and swapped a few tips about the tracks ahead.

Conditions were good and the track well and recently maintained. We made pretty good progress up through the varying bush towards the saddle, stopping part way up for a bite of lunch.

The last few hundred metres to the top are in open country with splendid views of the surrounding ranges, until the biv and its surrounding tarns is reached.

At the top we dropped packs and ploppped onto the grassy saddle to enjoy the views. Paul, with a sly smile on his face, reached into his pack and produced a pack of toffee pops chocolate biscuits. Wow! After a hard climb of 600 vertical metres, they were an unexpected treat. We polished them off in short order! Paul is a great guy.

From the saddle, the track follows the Toaroha river down a valley until it reaches the relative flats where the Toaroha hut is situated. We made a simple mistake and charged down the river following the orange DOC markers, enjoying the relative ease of downhill rock hopping river bed travel. What we didn’t pay attention to was where the track actually went.

Soon enough we were entering awkward and seemingly untravelled sections of the river, filled with very large boulders, difficult drops and unlikely looking squeezes.

We stopped. It didn’t seem right.

Finally, Magnus noticed a bright orange DOC track marker well above us on the true right of the stream we were standing in. Some way behind us we had missed a marker where the track left the river. Backtracking we found the deviation and followed the trail along a much higher route well above the steeply descending and increasingly narrow stream below.

From there the track followed much easier terrain for a while, before dropping fairly steeply in parts. In some of those places DOC have attached chains for handholds to help travellers down some particularly gnarly sections.

Finally the track opened out into the boggy flats which precede Top Toaroha hut. We wandered across them feeling like we were greeting an old friend, having stayed at this hut on our previous attempt at the circuit in 2012.

As is becoming a bit of a Moa Hunt custom, Chris excelled himself in the cooking department again and produced a superb loaf of bread. A day spent carrying the raising dough in a billy was well worth the effort. Well the rest of us thought so anyway!

Another superb Chris Creation. — Another superb Chris creation. (He could do with a shave though)

Day 5: Monday 24th February – Top Toaroha Hut to Road End

For our final day on the track we were up and organised in record time. With a fairly long but not overly arduous day ahead of us, followed by a drive back to Christchurch, we didn’t want to muck about. By 8.05am we were on the track. Not exactly the break of dawn, but not bad for a bunch of creaky old Moa Hunters.

Our Top Toaroha pose — A Moa Hunter Top Toaroha pose

Having walked the stretch of track between Top Toaroha hut and Cedar Flat huts previously, we thought knew what to expect. And this time round conditions would be noticeably easier due to the dry track conditions.

An unexpected hurdle was locating the track out from the hut. We had frequently come across weather damage along the circuit, caused by the torrential rains in January. Large scars on the landscape carved by what would normally be small creeks had cut massive washouts down hillsides, scouring them deep and wide, leaving debris and rocks strewn everywhere.

The grassy track we had previously followed ten minutes out from the hut was gone. In its place was a very wide stretch of battle scarred riverbed, mostly shingle, but littered with large rocks, broken branches and logs. It was almost unrecognisable from three years previous.

After a frustrating ten minutes search, we located the track right at the bottom end of the bush on the opposite bank. To find it, follow the bushline down the slope until you locate the DOC marker. Perhaps by now a few more cairns have been left by other trampers.

Following the true right of the Toaroha river down the valley, the track was generally relatively easy going and we made good time to the turnoff to Crystal Biv. We continued on a little farther before calling a break. Knowing it was going to be a long day, like hobbits, we stopped beside the river for “second breakfast” at 11.30am. Sitting in the sun was more than pleasant.

Lunch by the river. Mostly sandfly free. — Second breakfast by the river. Mostly sandfly free.

Beyond our lunch stop, the track was very much more of the same until at 1.30pm we reached the open grassy flats where the Cedar Flats huts are located.

The "new" Cedar Flat hut — The “new” Cedar Flat hut

The newest of the two huts there had undergone something of a transformation. Now ‘L’ shaped, it had twice as many bunks as before and a separate kitchen area. Obviously the popularity of the hot pools here warranted a bit of investment in the facilities since our previous visit in 2010. We settled in for a third breakfast. Or was it a second lunch?

Cedar Flat swing bridge crosses the Toaroha

Keen to get home, we blasted down the last section of riverbed and track. By 5.30pm we had emerged from the bush and were walking across grassy meadow towards the Kokatahi river. As on our last trip, we would cross the river, nip across some farmland and phone to be picked up.

As we approached the river, we were greeted by a German couple looking wet and slightly flustered. They appeared to have dressed rapidly and recently after a likely skinny dipping session. Good on them! After advising them that walking off into the Toaroha valley with their scant supplies and poor footwear was ill advised that late in the day, we said goodbye and forded the river.

No, it isn't milking time, ladies.... — No, it isn’t milking time, ladies….

When we reached the opposite bank, two problems arose. Mobile phone reception was almost non-existent, and the sandflies had found us. Not wanting to hang around and be eaten alive, we marched across the farm and out onto Lake Arthur road. There after quite a walk, we finally found both reliable mobile phone reception and the phone number for our transport. A few mouthfuls of wild blackberries later, we were picked up by the lovely Johanna and whisked back to her house.

We all agreed the trip was one of the best, if not the best Moa Hunt yet. Every day was tough, but rewarding. The weather had been magic, the scenery stunning, (the company reasonably tolerable) and we had finally pulled it off. New Zealand’s most remote hot pools had been ticked off the list!

2012 – Wangapeka – Wonderful wilderness and wasps

2012/09/052019/07/19 by Adam, posted in 2012 - Wangapeka

Moa Hunters on this trip: Adam, Paul, Richard, Logan

The Trip:

Day 1: Drive to Murchison. Stay night at River View Holiday Park.
Day 2: Drive to east end Wangapeka Track. Walk to Kiwi Saddle Hut
Day 3: Kiwi Saddle Hut – Stone Hut
Day 4: Stone Hut – Biggs Tops – Thor Hut
Day 5: Thor Hut – Karamea Bend Hut
Day 6: Karamea Bend Hut – Flora Carpark

Our route on topomap.co.nz

Our route on Google maps

Day 1: Drive to Murchison. Stay night at River View Holiday Park.

After the usual week of emails flying in all directions, we were as ready as we would ever be. The Moa hunters converged on Paul’s house at 6pm ready for a fairly long drive to Murchison and a night in a tourist flat at the Riverview Holiday Park.

Despite some dribbly West Coast rain, we made good time and rolled into Murchison at 10.15 pm. The camp manager at Riverview initially looked pissed off that we had arrived so late. However, when we reminded him that we had booked and arranged to be late, he transformed quickly into a laid-back friendly camp manager and gave us the key to our accommodation.

Our tourist flat turned out to be a fairly decent sized three bedroom house. By 7am the following morning we had successfully filled it with the delicious aroma of bacon, eggs, tomato and hash browns. By 8am the fried goodness was all gone and we were out the door and on the road again.

Day 2: Drive to east end Wangapeka Track. Walk to Kiwi Saddle Hut

10.00am arrived and we were finally standing at the East end of the Wangapeka track. The skies were overcast, but not threatening. Bellbirds chimed their welcome from the surrounding bush, and we were keen to get under way. None more so than Logan who took off at something close to escape velocity. We blasted down the extremely easy track, reaching the Kiwi saddle track in two hours… A good 30 minutes quicker than the listed time on the DOC information board.

Leaving the Wangapeka, we set off up the somewhat more challenging Kiwi track. With far less foot traffic than the Wangapeka, this track was quite overgrown in places, and considerably more uneven. Hook grass quickly became the bane of our lives. Reaching across the track, hungry seed heads were constantly tugging at the hairs of our legs, decorating them with hundreds of annoying jangling little seeds. Pulling them off was a futile endeavour. Each seed removed had a thousand mates waiting in ambush round the next corner.

As we climbed higher, the hook grass thinned out and we started to enjoy the surroundings. The Beech forest slowly gave way to more unusual looking vegetation, including the mountain neinei, looking like a twisted and contorted cabbage tree. Three hours later the superbly graded track had led us easily up to the Kiwi Saddle Hut. Nestled in a small grassy clearing with great views of Mt Luna, the hut is a fantastic old relic. Inside we quickly spread the contents our packs in all directions and made ourselves at home. The open fire was almost completely useless for heating the hut, but standing outside and leaning on the metal flue was a great way to warm tired backsides!

With the prospect of a fairly big day ahead, we hauled our aching carcasses off the hut bunks at the fairly crisp hour of 6am and set about heating some porridge. It was very cold in the hut, but the weather outside looked promising. If we were to get over the Mount Luna route, we would need clear skies.

Day 3: Kiwi Saddle Hut – Stone Hut

By 8.40am we were packed and out the door. Heading up the track through large stands of mountain neinei, we made an easy ascent to the bushline. Once clear of the vegetation, we followed a fairly well trodden route up an increasingly narrow ridgeline. An hour later we had a clear view of what lay ahead. We could see a potential route across the tops to Mt Luna, but also had significant doubt about one section in particular which looked especially steep and gnarly.

Paul and Richard made a quick descent to a tarn some 50 metres below to stock up on water. By the time they returned, the wind had picked up considerably and cloud was building on nearby peaks. Things were starting to look ominous.

We picked our way up the ridge, which at times was a real razorback with severe dropoffs on either side. A mistake here would be serious. The wind gusts were now strong enough that we all took it into account on narrow sections, making sure we had room to step to the right, should we be blown off balance. Just to make things even more unpleasant, the cloud descended, a bitterly cold rain began to pelt us and visibility dropped to less than 100m.

Upon reaching a high point, we stopped and made a key decision. Attempting the tops route would be dangerous and foolish. We opted for Plan B, and pointed ourselves down a fairly steep grassed slope leading to the head of the Stone valley.

We quickly located the familiar large orange triangular DOC track marker at the edge of the treeline and began our descent down the sheltered track. Two and a half hours later we emerged from the forest. A quick river crossing later and we were at the Stone Hut.

Stone Hut is a big modern DOC built hut, with ten bunks and a proper log burner. We settled in, lit up the gas burners and prepared ourselves the traditional enormous Moa Hunter meal with a hot chocolate entree.

Day 3: Stone Hut – Biggs Tops – Thor Hut

Day four dawned overcast, but not unpleasant. We had effectively lost half a day by bailing out on the Mt Luna high route, so had to make good time to our next goal – over Biggs Tops and down to the Trevor Carter Hut.

We hit the track at 8.10am and made our way up the track, which meanders along just above a sleepy trickling creek. Located well below the bushline, the Wangapeka Saddle was reached in less than an hour. We stopped briefly and took the opportunity to fill our water bottles, before setting off up the side track. Half an hour later we broke out of the bushline into the bright warm sunshine. It was all too pleasant, so we took the chance to find a sheltered spot on the rocky slope for a snack.

Following a poled route that traverses two thirds of the way up the side of a large basin, we were able to enjoy some excellent views of the mostly bush covered surrounding ranges. After a quick side trip to the top of a rocky knob, we stood at the top of an extremely steep looking track leading to the Karamea river far below.

Open country of Biggs Tops above the Wangapeka Saddle

And true enough, the descent was brutal. A benign looking layer of fallen leaves on the track masked treacherous slippery beech roots. Stepping on a concealed root meant an instant loss of traction, feet, body and pack sent careering down the steep slope. During the two hour drop to the valley we ended up on our sorry arses at least a half a dozen times.

Aside from numerous falls on the way down, the only other point of interest was Richard’s close encounter with a fawn, which was heading up the track as he rounded a corner. He wasn’t sure who was more startled at their chance meeting!

The elevated "throne" at Trevor Carter Hut — The elevated “throne” at Trevor Carter Hut

The Trevor Carter hut is a big one. As it was only mid afternoon, we decided to press on to the Thor Hut. After grabbing a quick bite to eat, we were soon on the track again. The walk along the Karamea river was lovely, with beautiful crystal clear pools revealing large rainbow trout, swimming lazily in the current.

Like the Kiwi Saddle Hut, Thor Hut is a quaint little six bunk setup with an open fire and not much more. We arrived to find it empty and well stocked with firewood. We dumped packs, removed boots and made ourselves at home.

Before long we heard voices outside, and a quick look out the window confirmed we would likely be sharing the hut that night. Four French tourists on a fishing trip had joined us. This left us with the slightly awkward situation of having eight people and only six bunks. Richard opted to kip on a pile of Thermarests and we loaned some bedrolls to one of the Frenchmen.

The tourists had been choppered in to the Crow Hut, complete with all their supplies. They had made their way along the Karamea to Thor Hut, fishing as they went, hooking some very nice trout along the way. They had released them all.

We spent the evening with them next to the river watching eels swim into the bank, temped by the empty tuna tins the tourists had put in the water. Later we shared our cheesecake and what conversation we could, given the language barrier. Our French friends were polite and friendly, like us enjoying the beauty of the Kahurangi National Park. Despite that, we felt they were somehow not quite from the same planet as us.

Day 5: Thor Hut – Karamea Bend Hut

Just before sunrise the following morning we attempted to eat breakfast and depart as silently as possible. I don’t think we succeeded at all, but hopefully our French hut-mates appreciated our efforts.

At 8am we said Goodbye. Richard, having traveled recently to Vietnam demonstrated his multiculturalism by bidding the friendly French fishers, ‘Adios’. Hopefully one of them knows a little Spanish, Richard!

Unfortunately the Kahurangi National Park is home to a few nasty pests… Wasps are pretty much everywhere. We had been aware of their presence the whole trip, and were always careful not to stray from the beaten track. But on this day our luck ran out when Paul and Richard accidentally disturbed a nest. Shouts of warning and pain from each of them had all four of us sprinting down the track, packs and all, to escape the unseen enemies.

Richard and Paul copped two fiery stings each. Later in the day Adam grabbed one of his own and later still, Logan joined the stung club. Each incident was accompanied by a 50 metre wind sprint. While we saw the funny side, the wasp attacks really did take the gloss off what are spectacular natural surroundings.

While most of the route was easy walking, a short greasy rocky section below a steep bank was a bit more interesting. Fortunately DOC had attached a series of cables for handholds, and we made our way along the slippery sloped surface without incident.

Two hours after setting out, we arrived at the Venus Hut. Unlike her much older brother Thor, Venus is a shining example of the new DOC hut style. While lacking in any kind of charm, they do have smart features, effective heating and insulation.

Between the Venus Hut and the Karamea Bend Hut the track occasionally followed some interesting dry steam beds which formed sandy corridors through the beech forest. Following one of these corridors, we we came to a section of the Karamea river where it eddied out on a bend, forming a broad glassy lake. It was irresistible. We stopped to skim stones and generally soak up a little sun. When the sandflies found us we hefted our backpacks and set out down the track again.

About half an hour before the Karamea Bend Hut our hopes that the day was done were raised when we came upon the DOC staff quarters. Perched in a clearing high on the hillside, DOC staff are able to enjoy great views of the river below.

The sandfly population at the Karamea Bend Hut were brutal. Savage, persistent and voracious. Even the stiff breeze outside the hut wasn’t deterring them. We very quickly dropped our packs, removed our boots and bolted into the relative safety of the hut. As if the sandflies outside weren’t enough, we quickly discovered that wasps have built a nest in the ventilation chimney of the toilet outside too.

Day 6: Karamea Bend Hut – Flora Carpark

We had a comfortable night in the enormous new hut, an exact replica of the Venus Hut we passed earlier in the day. After an early breakfast, we were packed and on the trail shortly after 8. The Leslie track was idyllic to say the least. With the river flowing sedately on our left, and ancient massive totara, rimu, kahikatea, matai flanking the track on our right, we were surrounded by New Zealand’s finest. It was a magic start to what would be a long day.

After a couple of hours, the track leaves the river, beginning a long but steady climb through the forest to the tablelands. By midday we reached Spludgeons Shelter, a rustic and atmospheric place which had surely has seen a lot of interesting people come and go. We would have loved to have spent a night there, but by this time we had agreed we would attempt to walk out and drive home that night. We ate a hearty lunch, and after a worthwhile scamper up to the lookout above the shelter, we were back on the track.

From Spludgeons, it is an hour and a half’s walk up to the tablelands, a unique setting of flat moor-like grasslands above the bushline. From this high open vantage point, we could see a weather change was on the way. Grey clouds were snaking around the surrounding hills and a cool damp wind started to blow.

We increased our pace, stopping a couple of times to chat to a the mostly elderly day walkers we encountered who had walked in from the Flora carpark or one of the many huts in the area.

Just as the walk up to the tablelands was steady uphill, our walk for the rest of the day was a steady descent. We made good time and by mid afternoon we were sitting at the Growler shelter having “second lunch”. A few spots of rain were starting to fall, and it seemed inevitable we were going to get wet.

The lower we got, the wider and more well worn the track became, until finally at the Dry Rock Shelter it turned into a 4WD track. If the rain hadn’t been so persistent we would have spent more time exploring what is an amazing shelter built on and around an enormous boulder beside the track.

When we reached the Flora Hut, the rain was still falling steadily and we were walking through misty cloud. A final snack of scroggin was eaten before we walked the final section to the Flora carpark where the ute was waiting for us. It had been a ten hour day, and to put it bluntly, we were all fairly knackered and happy to be finished.

On the way back to Christchurch we all reflected on what had been a great walk, through spectacular country.

The Three Passes 2006: Pea Soup and Brown Trousers

2012/06/062019/10/08 by Adam, posted in 2006 - Three Passes

Moa Hunters on this trip: Chris, Paul, Richard

Itinerary:

Day 1: Klondyke Corner – Carrington Hut – Harman Pass (Ariel’s Tarns)
Day 2: Harman Pass – Whitehorn Pass – Park-Morpeth Hut
Day 3: Park Morpeth Hut – Browning Pass – Grassy Flats Hut
Day 4: Grassy Flats Hut – Road End

See our route on topomap.co.nz

See our route on Google Maps

This was to be the third Moa Hunt, and after the two excursions to Mt Tapuaenuku, the team were looking forward to a different destination this time.

The regular February tramp had now been elevated to a required item on each of the Moa Men’s calendars and was eagerly anticipated.

Indestructable go-anywhere Moa Men delivery vehicle

This year it was time to try out a true classic trip – “The Three Passes”: Harman, Whitehorn and Browning Passes, crossing the main divide thrice. Taking in the headwaters of the Waimakariri, Taramakau, Rakaia and Hokitika Rivers in just 4 days.

Paul suggested the route this year, heartily agreed upon by Chris and Richard.

Day 1: Klondyke Corner – Carrington Hut

An 5:30am start was achieved from Chris’s place, with Paul’s very obliging father Alan, providing transport to the start line at Klondyke Corner. Alan also provided a stomach lining, artery hardening, breakfast from a BBQ perched on the tailgate of his 4WD.

Breakfast consisted of eggs, bacon, tomatoes, sausages and lamb’s liver all well fried and served on toast. Alan had heard of healthy, fibre filled breakfasts and didn’t put much faith in them when it came to kick-starting and 4 day tramp. (Many thanks Alan)

Powered by the high calorie breakfast, the stoney stroll up the Waimakariri Riverbed to the Carrington Hut was soon dispatched, in just under 4 hours.

An early lunch at Carrington Hut also seemed somewhat unnecessary with the breakfast still sustaining all of us, even Chris a true food lover only managed a light nibble.

The day remained dry but clouded over as we crossed the White River and ascended Harman Creek to Harman Pass, the first of the 3 Passes.

While climbing we met several small parties on day return trips from Carrington Hut to the pass, all enjoying the rugged beauty of the Harman River.

The Harman creek is a narrow waterway of average steepness with very little vegetation. Chris and Paul had traveled the same route many years before, during a Labour weekend trip to the Julia Hut Hot Pools. Conditions on this trip were noticeably lacking the 10 feet of packed avalanche snow filling the narrow ‘V’ of the valley that we had last time. It is debatable if the ascent is easier on firm snow or broken rock streambed.

Harman Pass was reached about 3:30pm and Ariel’s tarns soon after, with a glimpse or two obtained, between the hills, of tomorrow’s route up the valley leading to the Whitehorn Pass. Camp was pitched in a picturesque location on the edge of the largest tarn. The tent was positioned in the lee of a pile of rocks constructed by previous tramping parties. Ariel’s tarns are sparsely surrounded by a quite a number of rock monoliths, the tallest of which are about 4m tall, this creates a strangely prehistoric landscape that is well worth the visit.

The water in the large tarn is drinkable and not the mud flavoured offering found in many other smaller tarns in the mountains, so drinking and cooking water is conveniently handy.

The climb up to the Harman Pass had proven strenuous and we were all glad to climb into our sleeping bags that night. The weather forecast for the following day was for the clouds to close in and light rain to infiltrate the mountains around the main divide. Unfortunately this prediction was uncannily accurate.

During the night the wind and rain started and the temperature dropped. Paul and Richard found themselves “snuggling” back to back to keep warm (I would like to stress here that both were still in their separate sleeping bags, no ‘Broke Back Mountain’ for the Moa Hunters!)

Day 2: Harman Pass – Whitehorn Pass – Park-Morpeth Hut

Morning dawned with drizzle and thick cloud down to ground level, creating an otherworldly, barely discernible landscape through the murk. The large tarn was no longer completely visible and the rock monoliths loomed ominously out of the low cloud, often disappearing completely as pockets of thicker cloud swirled and obscured them. Traveling up the valley to the Whitehorn Pass in the disconcertingly thick cloud proved to be a very challenging navigational experience. With visibility down to 20m at best, all three of us were soon totally disorientated and forced to rely completely on the map and compass. All of us found that our internal direction finders were thoroughly scrambled and would have had us traveling in the wrong direction. This was, needless to say, very disturbing and had us quite worried about whether we were making a sensible decision to keep going. Thank goodness for the compass!!

After a couple of anxious hours in the clouds, we emerged out of the clag onto the lower reaches of the Whitehorn Glacier (right on track). Guide books and DOC at Arthur’s Pass had advised that ice axes, crampons and possibly rope could be required on the Whitehorn Glacier. We found the snowy slope to be gentle and benign and another hour without the use of any specialist equipment had us basking in full sun on Whitehorn Pass and lunch was soon spread about on convenient rocks. The Cronin Glacier provided the mid-day entertainment with regular chunks of ice breaking off the terminal face and crashing 100’s of meters into the valley below.

The descent off Whitehorn Pass into the valley is long, steep and rocky, do not attempt it unless you have good knees and at least reasonable visibility to see safely ahead, as some of the scree paths finish abruptly in bluffs. Our advice is to traverse uphill towards the Cronin glacier for a few hundred metres until you could see safely to the river at the bottom.

From the pass it took a good 3 hours to reach the Park-Morpeth Hut, which was bathed in warm sunshine. We were all glad to spread our sleeping mats on the grass and soak up the sun’s rays, a pleasant end to a day that had started with a fair sized serving of navigational unease in the clouds at Ariel’s Tarns.

We were soon joined by 2 hunters from Ashburton, who later went out for an evening shoot. They returned with some reasonable photos of deer, but had not actually fired a shot, as their freezers at home were already full and they were after trophy heads.

Day 3: Park Morpeth Hut – Browning Pass – Grassy Flats Hut

Next morning dawned cool and cloudy and the ascent of Browning Pass began. The hunters had said it was about 2 hours from the hut to the top of the Pass, the 500m climb took us 2 ½.

The track over Browning pass was originally surveyed in the late 1800’s as an alternative to the Arthur’s Pass route. Considerable effort has been invested in the distant past to build a 1 metre high by 2 meters wide stone path that zig-zags through several switch backs while ascending the slope towards Browning Pass. We were somewhat perplexed by the massive effort invested to construct this wall by hand, as the obvious destination is the near cliff-like final climb to Browning Pass, where no road or track could ever be formed and certainly no cart or horse could ever travel.

The last 50 meters or so to the top of Browning Pass is very steep and requires considerable care. Do not rush this bit! It was at this stage that Chris and Richard decided they were outside their comfort zone and renamed the pass Brown-Trousers pass.

Impressive valley views from Browning ‘Brown Trousers’ Pass

Reaching the top of Browning Pass sees a spectacular change in terrain from a steep almost cliff-like scramble in a rock chute, to the large, level vista that is Lake Browning and the tussock meadow that surrounds it. We had read that many summer parties have a quick dip in the lake, but today the overcast sky and strong cool wind put pay to any temptation for a quick splash.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully and pleasantly, descending to the Arahura River, passing by the Harman Hut, crossing the lofty swing-bride over the Harman River, then through the Styx Saddle to the new Grassy Flats Hut. The only tricky bit is the chest high tussock in the Styx saddle which completely obscures your foot placements and therefore often has you stumbling. A turned ankle at this stage, on the easy going low lands would not be a good way to end the trip.

We joined 2 other trampers at the Grassy Flats Hut. The day had been about 9 hours walking and the 3 of us were glad to get the boots off and get a hot cup of Milo in hand. The Milo was of course liberally spiked with whiskey, this medicinal additive soon helped numb the sore feet and stiff shoulders. The new Grassy Flats Hut is well constructed and well sealed against sand-fly penetration (thank goodness).

Day 4: Grassy Flats Hut – Road End

An early start the next day had us comfortably through the easy 12kms to the end of the track by noon, hampered only by about 1 million hook grass seeds attaching themselves to the hair on each of our legs. Luckily at the road end we found a couple of car loads of kayakers waiting for the rain promised later that day, to bring the river level up. One of these kayakers was happy to give Paul a lift to a local farm to phone cousin Raymond in Hokitika, who had been pre-arranged to pick us up.

Raymond soon arrived and whisked us away to Hokitika, where with time-honoured West Coast hospitality, he laid on large steaks, beer and a shower for each of us. (God-bless the Coasters)

2012 – Wangapeka – The Plan

2012/01/262019/01/14 by Adam, posted in 2012 - Wangapeka

Plan A for Moa Hunt 2012 was to attempt the Toaroha – Whitcombe, in the reverse direction we walked in 2010. However, due to the circuit being Magnus’s brainchild and him being unable to make the trip, an alternate route in the Wangapeka / Mt Arthur region has been roughly drawn out:

The Alternate Plan: Wangapeka / Mt Arthur

The route on Google Maps

Thursday Night 23rd February

Drive to Murchison and stay the night at suitable accommodation

Friday 24th

Option 1

(7 hours)
Start at Rolling River Shelter near Tapawera. Rolling River Shelter to Kings Hut (20 bunks) (3.75 hours). Kings Hut to Stone Hut (2.5 hours)

Option 2

(8 hours v approx) (good weather only)
Start slightly before Rolling river Shelter and walk up ridge line on Chummies track to John Reid Hut (4 hrs) Then follow along ridge line headed west to Kiwi Saddle Hut (4 hrs)

Saturday 25th

Option 1a

(8 hours)
Stone Hut to Wangapeka Saddle (1 hour)
Wangapeka Saddle to Trevor Carter Hut via Biggs Tops (5 to 7 hours) (good weather only)

Option 1b

(7.5 hours) Stone Hut to Wangapeka Saddle (1 hour)
Wangapeka Saddle to Trevor Carter Hut via Helicopter Flat Hut (5 to 6.5 hours) (low level route)

Option 2

(8 hours v approx) (good weather only)
Kiwi Saddle Hut along ridge line to Mt Luna then to Big Tops. Descend from Bigs Tops to Trevor Carter Hut. Escape route down to Wangapeka track to Stone Hut is a marked track

Sunday 26th

(9 hours)
Trevor Carter Hut to Thor Hut (3 to 6 hours dependant on route taken high or low water). Thor Hut to Venus Hut. (2- to 3 hours). Venus Hut to Crow Hut (2 to 3 hours).

Monday 27th

(8 hours)
Crow Hut to Karamea Bend Hut (3 to 4 hours). Karamea Bend Hut to Splugeons Shelter. This is an open to the elements shelter built into a rock overhang – sounds interesting, altitude = 800m – maybe high enough to see the sand-fly density dropping appreciably, no guarantees though. (4 hours)

Tuesday 28th

(Variable hours)
This day really depends on the weather. If good we may spend quite sometime getting to Mt Arthur and maybe the pyramid.
If poor then it will be straight to the Flora car park and home Splugeons Shelter to Salisbury Lodge via the Tablelands (2 to 3 hours). Salisbury Lodge to Mt Arthur Hut fork in track (2.5 hours). Mt Arthur Track Fork to Mt Arthur (1795m) (1 hour). Mt Arthur to Flora car park (4 hours)

Wednesday 29th

Only used if we need it to get through to Flora Car Park
The two ends of this trip are criss-crossed by numerous tracks and serviced with quite a number of shelters and huts and therefore the plans described here are flexible depending on a number of factors. Fitness, weather, masochism etc

Also the Mt Arthur area is frequented by many day walkers out of Nelson, making the tracks well travelled and well formed. This helps explain the quite fast track times seen quoted for relatively long distances. Hopefully 4 days of prior walking won’t have made us too foot sore for this part.

Moa Hunting Checklist

2011/07/122019/11/16 by Adam, posted in Miscellaneous Moa

In New Zealand, heading off into the wilderness with a backpack and boots on is called tramping. In the States and Canada its hiking, and in Britain its rambling. No matter what you call it, spending time tramping and camping in remote areas should never be taken lightly.

If you are planning a trip anywhere in the World, here’s a gear list the Moa Hunters recommend you take, regardless of the season and weather forecast.

Intentions and Weather

Before you set foot on the track, you must leave a record of your intentions: where you are going and for how long. In New Zealand the expectation is you would leave these with family and/or close friends. If you are visiting New Zealand, the Department of Conservation AdventureSmart website has an online intention recording system. If you use huts on your trip, sign in on the visitor book and note your intended route if plans have changed.

Check the weather forecast before you leave. Have alternative routes pre-planned should the weather close in while you are away.

Backpack and liner

Always check your backpack is in sound condition before you leave the house. In particular check the main shoulder straps, zips and waist belt.

A pack liner is a large tough plastic bag which fits inside the main compartment of your pack and protects everything inside it from the elements. Stuffing all your gear into the pack liner ensures it stays dry even in a worst weather, or more importantly, if you fall making a river crossing.

Footwear

Obviously you need a decent pair of boots. The more rugged the terrain you are going to tackle, the more rugged your boots need to be. Above all, make sure they have good ankle support and fit snugly. Having spare shoelaces with you isn’t a bad idea.

If you are worried about blisters, apply sports strapping tape before you start walking. Stick it anywhere you think a blister could form. Prevention is better than cure!

While not essential, having a pair of lightweight shoes in your pack is handy. You get to put your feet into warm dry footwear at the end of the day. You also have a second option should a boot unexpectedly and catastrophically fail you.

Wearing gaiters will protect your lower legs from sharp grasses and branches. They also prevent shingle getting into your boots during river crossings or while on scree.

Wet Weather Gear

If you are heading out for any length of time, keeping your upper body warm and dry is vital. Your jacket must be waterproof and must protect your trunk from the elements. Wearing a cap under the hood when it is raining works well. The hood keeps your head dry and the peak of the cap keeps the rain off your face. If you are tramping in winter, you might consider waterproof over-trousers.

Warm Clothing

When packing clothes, plan for the worst case scenario.

Ensure you have a full change of clothes and plenty of layers. Polypropylene thermals are excellent for wearing while walking. Even when wet they keep you warm and retain their thermal properties quite well. Woolen thermals such as merino provide more warmth, and are great in the hut or tent when you are dry, but not so good if there is a risk of getting wet. Polar-fleece is an excellent top layer that dries quickly, and works well even when wet.

Avoid large bulky items if you can. Taking plenty of lighter layers gives you more options for staying warm in all conditions.

Don’t forget your head and hands. Always pack a wool or polar-fleece beanie for your head and some warm mittens or gloves for your hands.

Emergency Equipment

Don’t leave home without a personal locator beacon (EPIRB). In New Zealand they can be hired from the Department of Conservation for a modest cost. We repeat, don’t leave home with out one – it is a vital piece of kit! Weather conditions change unexpectedly and rapidly. Accidents can happen.

Carry a comprehensive first aid kit.

Emergency thermal blankets are lightweight and take up very little space in your backpack.

Even if you plan on sleeping in huts, carry a nylon tent fly. If you don’t make a hut, you will need some form of shelter overnight.

Navigation

Don’t rely on guesswork or a well marked track. Always take a good topographic map of the area and an orienteering style compass. Make sure someone in your group knows how to use them.

They need to be able to locate your position on the map, take bearings to significant features on the map, and to features around you.

Carrying a GPS is useful, but don’t be 100% reliant on it.

Food

Always take extra food. If the weather turns grim, you may be on (or off!) the track for several days longer than anticipated. When planning your food, factor in at least an extra days rations.

Take lightweight freeze-dry packs for main meals, and high energy foods (nuts, chocolate, salami etc) for lunches and snacks.

Other Items

In no particular order, you will also need the following:

sleeping bag
sleeping bedroll (inflatable most comfortable, foam rubber most durable)
gas or white spirit cooker
matches or lighter
long rope or cord
plate, cup, cutlery, dish-washing gear
torch and headlamp
sunblock
insect repellent
water bottle, water purification tablets
toilet roll
toiletries
camera
sewing kit
mobile phone (maybe!)
whisky (definitely!)

Magnus’s Cocoa (Hot Chocolate) Recipe

2011/05/202019/07/06 by Adam, posted in Miscellaneous Moa

After a hard day walking, there’s nothing like a nice big mug of steaming hot cocoa drink.

Not satisfied with the easy-mix commercial hot chocolate varieties, Magnus has come up with his own hot chocolate recipe, using real cocoa.

Real cocoa powder retains some of the natural cocoa oils. Because they inhibit mixing with water, they are removed from off the shelf hot chocolate powders. Knowing those oils carry much of cocoa’s flavour and add a nice smooth texture to the drink, Magnus set about creating his own hot chocolate mix.

And here it is, free for all. While it is obviously more effort, the result is a rich, smooth and authentic flavoured drink.

Ingredients

Per 330ml mug final drink mix

45g full-milk powder
7g real cocoa powder
6.6g sugar

E.g. for 12 portions mix up

540g full-milk powder
84g real cocoa powder
80g sugar

extras: vanilla essence, whisky

To prepare a delicious hot cocoa drink:

Put about 110ml (59g or about 6 or 7 teaspoons) of the premix into a mug.

Pour in a little bit of cold water and mix with the handle end of a teaspoon until you have a nice smooth homogeneous thin paste.

Add hot water (not too full!) and stir thoroughly. Finally, top the cup up with half a teaspoon of vanilla essence and a generous volume of whisky or similar suitable spirit (optional, but recommended).

Enjoy!

2011 – Arthurs Pass – Benevolent Waimakariri WeatherGods

2011/05/192019/11/14 by Adam, posted in 2011(b) - Arthurs Pass

Moa Hunters on this trip: Richard, Magnus, Paul, Chris, Magnus, Adam

The trip

Day 1: Klondyke corner to Barker hut
Day 2: Barker hut to Carrington hut
Day 3: Carrington hut to Klondyke corner

The plan was agreed upon and finally the morning of the trip had arrived.

Early in the week, weather forecasts for Arthur’s Pass looked dire. A strong southerly blast arrived on the Tuesday and initial predictions showed the cold wet weather persisting into the weekend. This prompted Adam to head out and save a large amount of money on a sale price gore-tex jacket at Kathmandu.

It turned out the forecasts were a little pessimistic. Friday morning dawned cold but relatively clear. The strong cold southerly wind had died away and looking out to the alps in the west, things looked very promising.

To make Barker Hut while it was still light, Paul calculated we would need to be on the track by 9am. Factoring in the drive time to Klondyke corner, dropping a car at Otira and the usual farting about, we would need to meet at Adam’s house at 5.30am. Ouch.

Everyone arrived on time, and somewhat against the odds, we set off in two cars not long after 6am. Adam had made a breakfast bag for each car. Filled with bacon and cheese croissants, muffins and bananas, it was more than enough food for the moa hunters.

At precisely 9.02 am we were ready. With packs on and generous amounts of sandfly repellant applied, we strode manfully into the rocky Waimakariri river valley.

The Moa Hunters enter the Waimakiriri Valley

Wide flat valleys make for meandering rivers. The section of the Waimakariri we were walking is a classic example, with the river weaving from one side of the valley to the other. Consequently it wasn’t long before we had to make our first river crossing. We steeled ourselves for ankle achingly cold water, but were surprised and generally happy to discover it was only very cold.

One of many large slips in the valley — Rounding one of many large slips in the valley

Some people complain that the Waimakariri valley is boring. From a walking point of view, that’s probably true. The large number of difficult sized and often loose rocks make walking a bit of a chore, and it doesn’t change much from hour to hour. But on the day we were there, the snow topped mountains surrounding us were absolutely stunning. Pristine and magnificent against the bright blue sky, they more than made up for the mundane valley floor.

By mid morning we had made good progress and as the day warmed, sunscreen and hats were slapped on. Adam’s new jacket looked destined to stay deep in his pack this day.

A badly timed dose of diarrhea in the few days leading up to the trip had Paul worried he may have to pull out. Fortunately by Friday, things “down below” had settled enough for him to feel confident about the walk in, though not quite confident enough to fart.

Four hours of relatively easy walking saw us arrive at the Carrington Hut. Big enough to sleep 36 people in bunks, it’s more of a hotel than a hut. Our arrival coincided with lunchtime. While it was tempting to sit on the deck in the sun and eat, the thousands of extremely enthusiastic sandflies outside the hut forced us inside to eat at one of the many tables.

After lunch we braved the sandflies on the deck and pulled on our wet socks and boots. Food and anything else thrown out of packs were systematically stuffed back in. “Bugger, what the hell have I done with my glasses,” muttered Adam, rifling through some bags. Paul, with a smirk on his face, replied “…your glasses?” At which point Adam realised he was in fact wearing them. A sure sign he has joined the over 40′ (12.2 m)s club in body and in mind!

Magnificent Scenery all around us... — Magnificent Scenery all around…

Leaving the Carrington Hut, we also left the Waimakariri valley, turning southwest into the rather similar White River valley.

The route guide suggested that it was best to cross to the true left of the White River close to the Carrington Hut. We dutifully did this, only to have to cross back five minutes later as the river swung across the valley in front of us. None of us minded too much though. By this time the afternoon was getting hot, the cold water was refreshing and not particularly deep.

Walking up the valley became steadily more challenging. In a couple of places the river gorged and we had to leave the valley floor, picking our way higher up the side of the valley for a time.

In other places rock slides had left steep chutes of loose shingle. For Lewis this was new territory. Traversing these tricky slopes and learning to “go with the flow” when you start to slide on loose material earned a “five on the sphincter scale” from him. He was assured that loose rock and scree would quickly be mentally downgraded as he did more of them.

Without doubt the most “interesting” moment of the trip for Magnus was when a slab of rock suddenly cut loose above him, sliding towards him. A warning shout from Chris, and a neat sidestep from Magnus saw the slab go past him harmlessly. When asked what he said when the rock came to a rest below him, Magnus assured us it was “scheissdreck!!”

As we rounded a spur, the Barker Hut showed itself for the first time. High up on a rocky outcrop at the head of the valley, it looked small and rather distant.

Barker Hut in the distance atop a rocky outcrop — Barker Hut sits in the u-shaped basin on top of a rocky outcrop.

In fact, a good three hours away. The valley clearly became increasingly steep heading towards the hut, with a final brutal looking grunt round and up the left side of the outcrop.

The route guide mentioned a “high track” could be used. If we had seen where it started, we might have. As it was, we boulder hopped our way up the valley making steady progress.

Somehow though, we all had the feeling we were being quietly taunted by the Barker Hut. Throughout the afternoon it always seemed a lot higher than us, and never as close as anticipated when a new corner was rounded.

We did eventually reach the base of the outcrop, and were relieved to find the final section around it wasn’t nearly as gnarly as it had looked from a distance. Footholds were sure and while it was relatively steep, it wasn’t in any way precarious. One by one we made the top where the cheerful orange coloured Barker Hut welcomed us.

As always, we quickly turned an orderly hut into a mess of packs and gear strewn in all directions. The mountain radio and interior light were both non-operational. We found out later that a lightning strike had munted the solar panels / lead acid battery setup. A regular occurrence apparently.

Being autumn, dusk arrived quickly and it wasn’t long before we had to turn on our own battery operated lights to see what we were doing. Dinner smelled damn good and the hut quickly warmed up. Constructed from the same materials you would use for a coolstore, it is incredibly well insulated. Even with no heating, it got remarkably toasty inside.

Barker Hut catches the mornings first light

The next morning was a stunner. Patches of low cloud and fog drifted in the valley below, but where we were the air was icy clean and crisp. There was not a breath of wind and the first rays of sun were glancing orange and pink across the nearby glaciers.

Eating breakfast inside the hut would have been a crime, so we carried a bench seat up a small rise beside the hut. There we stood or sat and enjoyed our hot porridge while taking in spectacular views that money can’t buy.

Another criminal activity would have been to leave that place on such an amazing day. It didn’t take long to agree on a new plan. The morning would be spent exploring the ridges above the hut. After lunch we would walk four hours back to the Carrington Hut and spend the night there. The Waimakariri Falls Hut would have to wait for another trip.

Walking a broken rock ridge above Barker Hut

With a couple of daypacks we set off up an obvious looking route behind the hut. It was very interesting terrain. Shingle and rock rubble piled high long ago by glacial activity had weathered away on both sides, forming it into a fairly narrow steep-sided razorback ridge. Walking across it, we were all careful to stay central as the drop off on both sides didn’t look like a fun way to fall.

Stopping at the top of a rise, we sat down for a bite of scroggin. Looking down on glaciers, it felt we were pretty high up. Spotting a group of seven chamois below us confirmed the feeling. Being above chamois means you have achieved a respectable altitude. Unfortunately they didn’t stay in sight for long. Scampering at amazing pace across a rocky face then up and over a steep outcrop, they were gone in a matter of twenty seconds. It would have taken us a good couple of hours to cover the same ground.

Paul, being something of a mountain goat himself, decided a nearby peak was irresistible, and for the next half hour he entertained the rest of us by climbing it. We sat lazily in the sun watching him picking his way up to the top, betting on which route he might take. The view from the top was, according to Paul, an order of magnitude more spectacular than from where we were.

Looking down at Barker Hut and the White River valley beyond

Feeling privileged to be there in such spectacular surroundings in such extraordinary weather conditions, we headed back down to the hut. It was approaching lunchtime, and still there was barely a breath of wind and not a cloud in the sky.

When we reached the hut, the sun was hot and the tarn looks crystal clear and inviting. One by one the Moa Hunters stripped off and launched into the freezing water. Apart from Lewis, the exit from the tarn was almost as rapid as the entry!

Despite a few hunger pangs, we agreed to walk some way down to the valley before breaking into our lunch rations. We started packing our gear. Paul mentioned he “smelled different”… A curious thing he put down to not being 100% the past few days. We agreed this was probably the case. That was until Chris wandered in asking if anyone had seen his polyprop top, then pointed out the one Paul had on was remarkably like his. This observation explained two mysteries: where Chris’s top was, and why Paul thought he smelled more pungent than usual.

When we had all stopped rolling about laughing, we finished our tidy up, hefted our packs on and set off down into the valley below.

The Moa Hunters pose at the Barker Hut before heading down the valley

After an hour or so on the track, we called a break on the other side of a steep little ravine. It was once spanned by a bridge, but now crossing requires a sharp descent and an equally sharp climb up a narrow gut.

We unpacked salami, cabin bread and other goodies, sat in the sun and yarned about everything and nothing.

Heading down a valley you see more. You don’t have to look up far from your feet to see a long way ahead. Maybe that’s why we spotted a marker pole up the valley side on the true left of the river we hadn’t noticed on our way up the previous day. Following a fairly well walked track which sidled down the valley we made good progress.

Well, for about half an hour anyway. That’s when we came to a section of track littered with rocks left there by a large and relatively recent slip. They were difficult to spot in amongst the tall tussocky grasses and were almost always loose and unstable. The track was also very easy to lose and it was becoming generally ugly going.

It was at this point that Richard and Paul decided the high track was no fun at all and the river bed looked far more pleasant. We bashed and slid our way down the hillside scrub to the river, coming out not far from the “official” start of the track we had just abandoned. Somehow we had missed the marker pole at the bottom of the track on the way up.

Lots of delicious healthy whisky — Lots of healthy life-giving whisky

Once in the riverbed again we covered ground quickly, and by late afternoon the Moa Hunters were pulling off their boots at the Carrington Hut. A group of three others had claimed the coveted left-wing of the hut which has a log burner fire in it. We didn’t mind. Our side felt cosy enough once we filled it with the smells of cooking and had another of Magnus’s delicious whisky infused hot chocolate drinks in our bellies.

Later, Chris confessed to joining a yoga class. The rest of the Moa Hunters were suspicious his motives were just as much about viewing lycra-clad women as improving suppleness and flexibility. However, there soon followed an unexpected session of yoga stretching, contortion and other bizarre looking activities such as the Carrington Hut has never seen before.

Sitting at a table later in the evening, we were discussing the relative merits of sleep and how much is required. Chris noted that after 9 hours sleep he generally wakes up invigorated, feeling like an 18-year-old, runs outside, and can never find one! From there the level of conversation predictably deteriorated and Richard started singing the wonky donkey song…

The following morning was yet another stunningly clear crisp autumn day. Frost sparkled on the grass, and the hut in contrast to the Barker, was decidedly chilly. We all rugged up warmly as the porridge cooked. As there was no particular rush to get organised, we didn’t rush at all. It wasn’t until mid morning that we walked out the hut and struck out for the Waimakariri valley.

Hunter Dude and his gummy wearing gal pal

We bumped into two other groups as we wandered our way down. The first were a couple of experienced looking dudes heading out on a multi day expedition to the Julia Hut.

The others were a young hunter and (we assume) his girlfriend. He was decked out in expensive Swazi camo hunting kit. She was wearing a camo top, shorts and gumboots. Both had a leg of venison poking out their backpacks. It turned out she was in fact right at home in her gumboots, being a country gal from the UK, now working on a West Coast dairy farm. She assured us there’s nothing more comfortable!

The walk out to the car was an easy stroll and we were dropping packs beside the car by early afternoon. Chris and Paul headed over to Otira to fetch the other car we had left at that end. Rather than stay and be consumed by sandflies, Magnus, Adam, Richard and Lewis started wandering up the 4WD track to the road. By the time Paul and Chris completed their return trip and caught them up, they were in the Bealey Pub a few km up the road ordering the first round of beers.

Treading tarmac, heading for the Bealey Pub — Treading tarmac, legging it to the Bealey Pub

It had been a fantastic weekend. At the Dept of Conservation Office in Arthur’s Pass the ranger had remarked to Paul and Chris that he had never seen weather so clear and calm. We felt pretty damn lucky to have been there to enjoy it.