You might be wondering if the Moa Hunters drove all the way to Glenorchy just to wander up and down the Beans Burn river. While it is true there have been some questionable expeditions and decisions in the past, this was not one of those occasions…
Our problem on this trip was indecisive and messy weather. For over a week a series of low pressure systems had been rolling across Fiordland, bringing with them cloudy and wet weather. The sunny anticyclone we had been hoping for never quite arrived.
Our plan to charge around the epic Five Passes circuit was thwarted by weather, leaving us feeling very familiar with just one river valley. Persistent low cloud and drizzle stuck with us like an annoyingly chatty drunk outside a bar. With weather conditions average at best, venturing out of the bush onto the windy wet foggy tops was an activity we declined to partake in.
Nevertheless, if you would like to know just how gnarly (or not) Beans Burn is in 2026, read on!
Moa Hunters on this trip: Magnus, Adam, Paul, Luke, Chris, John
The Trip:
Day 1: Drive Christchurch to Wanaka
Day 2: Drive Wanaka to Glenorchy, jet boat to Beans Burn, Walk to forest campsite
Day 3: Beans Burn campsite to Split Rock biv
Day 4: Split Rock biv to Lower Beans Burn clearing
Day 5: Lower Beans Burn clearing to Christchurch
Day 1
Friday 3rd April – Christchurch to Wanaka
The first day of this trip was a travel day. No walking, just vehicles. At a leisurely start time of shortly after lunch, six Moa Hunters and all the usual tramping paraphernalia were loaded into two cars for the five hour drive from Christchurch to Wanaka.
A few hours and a few hundred kilometres south of Christchurch, we rolled into Twizel right on growly stomach time. It didn’t take us too long to locate a busy group of food trucks lined up in a parking area on Mackenzie Drive.
For a town that was supposed to be bulldozed in the early 1980’s at the completion of the Waitaki hydro project, Twizel is certainly a thriving little spot these days! The fish and chips from a mobile chippery trailer didn’t last long and got an enthusiastic thumbs up from the hungry Moa Hunter crew.
Clever Chris had arranged our night’s accommodation for us with Glen, a bowhunting mate who lives on the outskirts of Wanaka. Accommodation for us was a large tent on the lawn. To make life simple, Paul brought along a big family tent specifically for this one night, meaning we could leave our tramping tents rolled up and dry. Normally Glen would have offered us a spot on the lounge floor, but this being Warbirds over Wanaka weekend, we were not the only guests staying over.
Despite the basic bedroom arrangement, we couldn’t fault the generous hospitality, in particular Glen’s insistence on joining the crowd inside sampling a few wee drams of whisky. Or “tonsil varnish” as he affectionately calls it. We slept well with a couple of nightcaps warming our bellies.
Day 2
Saturday 4th April – Wanaka to Beans Burn forest camp
With a 9:45am check-in time at Dart River Adventures in Glenorchy, we needed to be up bright and early. Breakfast could wait until Glenorchy, but a much-needed coffee was gratefully consumed before we thanked Glen and headed south out of Wanaka.
First stop in Glenorchy was the village store where we each grabbed a second coffee and something chunky for breakfast. It’s an excellent community run store with great food – highly recommended if you ignore the eye watering prices!
Also… what the hell, Glenorchy?! Last time many of the Moa Hunters were here, it was a sleepy little one horse town with a couple of shops and maybe a pub. In 2026, just finding a carpark is challenging. Campervans, rental cars and tourists are everywhere – this town is now wide awake! Kind of feels like someone dropped a busy piece of Queenstown at the top of the lake…
Our logistics for this trip were a little complicated with a few moving parts to line up this morning. We had arranged for car relocations with the very helpful team at Trackhopper in Glenorchy. Before visiting them, we poked our nose in the door of Dart River Adventures to announce we had arrived, then drove our cars round the corner to Trackhopper. There we fitted them with lockboxes for the car keys and confirmed they would relocate them to Routeburn Shelter carpark for us on Tuesday. At that time, this was our exit point from the planned Five Passes trip. Once that was sorted, we legged it back to Dart River Adventures for a briefing on our jetboat trip up the Dart to Beans Burn – the start of our walk.
We had hoped for improving weather, but low cloud and mist draped the surrounding hills and the air felt heavy with the threat of rain. On the slightly brighter side, there was very little wind and it wasn’t particularly cold.
Dart River Adventures have an impressive all terrain people mover that is clearly the love child of a MAN truck and a standard bus. With our bags stowed inside it, we piled aboard for the 20 minute trip to our jetboat launch point on the Dart. It was quite a bit farther up the river than any of us expected, but an enjoyable bounce through some interesting farm country behind Glenorchy.
The blast up the Dart aboard the jetboat was awesome fun. Twin 350 Chev motors powered the vessel effortlessly up the shingle river braids, our driver expertly flinging it left and right around tight corners skimming across what seemed be very little water at all. Jetboats certainly are amazing machines and perfect for navigating the shallow twisting waters of New Zealand’s rivers.
We were dropped off a couple of hundred metres upstream from the confluence of the Dart and Beans Burn. Despite the generally damp drizzly conditions, river flows were relatively low, making this the best option for safe disembarking from the boat.
The time was 11:15 and we were all itching to get walking. The roar of the now empty jetboat’s engines were fading into the distance. It seemed like we’d spent absolutely ages getting from Christchurch to the start of the walk, and we were now itching to get into the quiet of the bush and begin our adventure.
And it was that small amount of haste that led to our first mistake…
Following the bank of the Dart River back to Beans Burn, we completely missed the entrance to the track, which actually pops out of the trees on the Dart river about 100 metres upstream from where the rivers meet.
Assuming (never assume!) the track began directly up Beans Burn, we walked to the confluence and then made our way up the true left.
To be fair, we weren’t the only ones to make this mistake. Boot prints in the sandy shingle ahead of us gave us no reason to doubt we were on the right path. But equally fairly, a two minute check of the topomap would have averted our error.
What did quicky give us doubt was the complete lack of anything resembling a track. It wasn’t long before we were in fairly thick bush, feeling generally frustrated at our slow progress and the lack of any obvious way forward.
It seemed not right, so Adam checked the topomap on his phone. With our location confirmed by GPS, we knew we were indeed some distance from the marked track, which actually ran some 100 metres or so east of our position, and fairly high above the river.
It was annoying that we’d become geographically embarrassed so soon in our journey, but at least we’d stopped to work out the issue before getting into really difficult terrain, and now knew how to correct it. We all bashed and grovelled our way up the steep slope from the river for 20 minutes or so until we finally located the very obvious and very walkable track.
Progress was faster and significantly more pleasant walking on the actual track. Drizzle was however fairly constant, occasionally thickening into light rain. With our faces constantly damp, at least our bodies got the day off from producing sweat to keep us cool. There’s got to be a bright side to everything, right?
Before embarking on this trip we had read some horror accounts of how messy Beans Burn can be. Many blogs described relentless bashing through unrelenting scratchy tree ferns and bracken mess, skirting round endless downed trees and general difficult and nasty unpleasantness.
To our pleasure and surprise, a hard working team had been up the track before us with scrub cutters and chainsaws. All about was evidence of their amazing work. Logs were cut and thrown aside, tree ferns, grasses and scrub trimmed short. Our wander up the Burn was surprisingly easy and mostly unobstructed.
But, for those of us less fit and less young than we once were, it was the weight of our packs full of food an tents combined with the steady climb up the valley that took its toll.
The forest around us was lush, carpeted in thick vivid green moss. The competition for space and light somehow felt fierce. Plants, lichens and ferns of all shapes and sizes compete for space on the ground, climbing over each other, intertwining roots, spiraling up trees, claiming rotting logs. It is a never-ending battle for nutrients and light.
Despite the wet conditions, footing on the track was sure. The rocks in this part of the world are abrasive and grippy, unlike farther north on the west coast where they are very much the opposite! The occasional sneaky tree root hiding under leaves caused a boot to slide unexpectedly, but in general there was very little risk of an unscheduled rapid sit down.
Breaking out of the forest into a large grassy clearing confirmed the weather was not improving at all. Thick cloud down to the valley floor obscured all but the feet of those mountains closest to us. With little to no breeze, the cloud and drizzle was unfortunately going nowhere fast.
For the next four hours we meandered our way through lovely forest, climbing steadily alongside Beans Burn. From time to time the valley squeezed up and the track skirted higher through rougher slower terrain, but in general walking was steady and the track wide.
At our afternoon scroggin stop we agreed that split rock biv was out of reach today. With sunset at 7:30pm, our preference was to find a suitable camping spot in the forest while it was still light and get settled in. We would get a good night sleep and hope for better weather conditions tomorrow.
It was about 6:00pm when Paul and Luke came upon a decent area for camping beside the track. We quickly erected our tents, then setup a tarpaulin shelter above a communal area. It felt good to get the weighty packs off. The prospect of snuggling down into a warm sleeping bag in this beautiful forest felt almost irresistible. It had been a long day… But before that, we had steak and fresh veges to cook and enjoy for dinner. No wonder our packs are so bloody heavy!
Day 3
Sunday 5th April – Beans Burn forest camp to Split Rock biv
Those of us who had been up and about at various times through the night to check the plumbing confirmed that it had likely drizzled throughout. Everything was wet when we crawled out of our tents. The trees were dripping and a misty drizzle drifted gently down at us through the forest canopy. It was very pretty, but not what we’d hoped for. Our plan was to be on the tops later in the day, and at this stage it wasn’t looking hopeful at all.
Steaming hot porridge, the perfect antidote for inclement weather, was served under our shelter tarp. Followed closely by hot coffee. Fueled up and suitable caffeinated, we set about deconstructing our camp. Very wet tents and generally damp everything else was pushed into our backpacks. The extra weight from all the wet gear didn’t please us at all.
Rather amusingly, just thirty seconds walk from where we had camped, we came upon a well-used, beautifully flat and clear camp area, with ample room for many tents and a campfire. Ah well, our spot wasn’t bad. But, you never know what’s just around the next corner!
Not far north of our camping spot was where the track clearing gang had called enough is enough and finished up. From here we found ourselves pushing through occasional thick stands of crown fern which were scratchy and soaking wet in equal parts. The odd tight gully and fallen tree also presented a little more challenge, but despite being more overgrown, walking wasn’t too bad.
Between the messy bits the mossy forest in the upper Beans Burn is absolutely gorgeous, reminiscent of what we encountered on the Dusky.
We reached split rock biv in time for an early lunch. The cloud had lifted a little and taken the drizzle with it. We gratefully dropped our packs on the flat grassy clearing at the base of the impressively large rocks. Spreading out we enjoyed the opportunity to soak up being out in the middle of nowhere with good friends.
Before heading up the open valley ahead, we took the time to check the topomap. We were keen to identify where the track leaves Beans Burn and heads steeply up to Fohn saddle. Unfortunately our estimations were awry and we guesstimated it being further than it actually was.
This mistake had some consequences later in the day when the group became spread out.
On our way up we all stuck to the valley bottom, which was often tricky with regular wading required between very large rocks in the tight streambed. Luke and Paul quickly put some distance on the rest of us.
With the incorrect estimation of where the saddle route was located still fresh in their minds, they charged past the marker cairns without spotting them.
Adam also overshot the cairns, but did see them as he passed by. Thinking they were marking an easy route up the valley on a grassy plateau, he said hello to them and walked on by. However, not too much further on, he did get an uneasy feeling that we were all walking way too far. Stopping to take a GPS location on his phone, he confirmed that we had indeed overshot the turnoff.
Unfortunately Paul and Luke were scampering up the valley, and with the river babbling cheerfully beside them, no amount of shouting from Adam could be heard.
Adam helplessly watched them disappear round a bluff.
Unsure of the best option, he decided to backtrack to a point where Luke and Paul could see if and when they turned back. He dropped down the valley and met John, Chris and Magnus coming up.
Fortunately Luke and Paul didn’t walk far past the bluff before they also realised things weren’t quite right and turned back. The Moa Hunter gang were relieved to see them appear on a ridge some way up the valley. Some long range sign language confirmed where the correct route was.
Being smart fellas, Paul and Luke didn’t simply retrace their steps straight down the valley. Instead they traversed back across the true right of the valley, maintaining their hard won altitude and aiming to meet us on the route up to Fohn saddle.
The rest of us backtracked a short way to the cairns and began the steep climb to the saddle. This section is certainly a grunt. Not being regularly walked, there isn’t a clear track to follow. In general the route where it appears well trod, tracks up a steep and mostly dry streambed that is littered with slabs of flat rock.
We met Luke and Paul maybe a hundred vertical metres off the valley floor and paused for a breather. Much time had been lost, and this was a good moment to take full stock of our situation. Above us the saddle and fair chunk of the slope below was shrouded in heavy cloud. You didn’t have to be a meteorologist to know there would be poor visibility and poor conditions on the tops. The cloud was also getting darker and we felt rain wasn’t far off. Based on our speed up the valley, we had some concerns there would be little daylight left when we reached the saddle.
Despite those many things stacked against a decision to push on, it still took us some time to agree the best option was turning back. Its interesting how the prospect of not completing a planned trip, missing out on views you’d hoped for, and not justifying all your planning and preparation, all conspire to influence decision making in a bad way.
However, we recognised those heuristics and made the sensible choice, turning ourselves back down the hill – destination split rock biv.
It goes without saying that the trip down the valley was a little easier than the walk up. Hard-won prior knowledge meant we were able to select more favourable terrain on our return journey south. In particular, heading up onto the high ground to the true left of the burn about two-thirds of the way back to split rock biv avoids a lot of rocky mess in the river bed. In fact there is the odd cairn up there marking what must have once been a marked trail. But being infrequently walked, it is indistinct and easily lost with more than a little bush bashing required from time to time.
Back at split rock biv, we setup camp once again. Chris, Magnus, Paul and Luke selected flat spots in the cave for their beds. Adam and John opted setup a tent on the grassy flat below. Some track maintenance in and out of the biv was undertaken, clearing away some overgrown vegetation and awkward stones. It is an awesome spot to spend a night, and I know certain members of the Moa Hunters were quite pleased we ended up back there!
There were mixed feelings in the team. We were very comfortable with our decision to turn back, but there was also an inevitable feeling of loss and disappointment. But nothing a big hot dinner, dessert, whisky-fortified hot chocolate and some lively banter couldn’t quickly diminish…
Day 4
Monday 6th April – Split Rock biv to lower Beans Burn clearing
We awoke to an action replay of the previous mornings’ weather. Low cloud and mist clung to the surrounding hills, the air was cool and damp, threatening to overflow into drizzle at any time. Exactly the kind of morning that makes a bowl of steaming hot porridge mandatory.
With bellies full, dishes washed, and wet gear pushed into wet bags then jammed into wet backpacks, we were ready to continue our descent of Beans Burn valley. After the obligatory team photo below split rock biv, we struck out across the open country, pushing through dripping wet tussock and grasses.
Between split rock biv and the beech forest, keep your eyes peeled for the trapping track markers. Walking these trails is far far easier going than struggling randomly down the valley!
There is a trapping track above the river on the true right of the valley. Look for a lone tree standing taller than the scrub with ribbon markers on it as you head down from split rock biv. Following that track, there are regular ribbons tied to the scrub, and the occasional cairn. Cairns also mark track entry and exit points where it crosses streams. Sometimes quite a distance up or downstream from each other – you have been warned!
It is absolutely worth taking the time to spot markers. If it feels like you may not be on the marked track, you almost certainly aren’t! Should you lose the track, stop, take stock, backtrack to where you were last on it and take more care. Pushing on into unmarked territory might seem like an OK idea at the time, but experience has taught us doing so inevitably leads to a world of scratchy pain, slow progress and frustration.
Our lunch break brought us a whole new experience for this trip. Sunshine! It felt so good having the warm rays on our faces – an immediate mood lifter. Damp gear was quickly hauled out of packs and spread over the scrub and grassy banks of the clearing beside the river. Even in April the sun has considerable power and it took surprisingly little time for most of our gear to feel quite dry. We particularly enjoyed our break, soaking up the pleasant conditions. Life the universe and everything was discussed while industrious dragonflies darted about the clearing, searching for whatever it is that interests dragonflies.
With some handy mobile satellite coverage available, Adam was able to get a few messages to Trackhopper and rearrange where and when vehicles would be relocated. They very helpfully agreed to drop the cars at Sylvan Flat campsite instead of Routeburn Shelter as originally agreed.
Stuffing warm dry belongings back into our backpacks somehow felt less of a chore, and our packs felt lighter. Whether they actually were mattered not! We headed back onto the track, unsure how far we would progress before making camp. Back to the confluence with the Dart river was a possibility, but unlikely.
As it was, we made it to the large clearing about 2 kilometres from the Dart. By then it was 4:30pm and we had walked without a break since lunchtime. The gorgeous setting setting with perfect campsites nestled among a stand of trees was too good to pass up.
Tents were pitched on beautifully flat ground in the shelter of the trees. Friendly South Island robins shadowed our movements as we got organised, looking for disturbed insects to snap up. While welcoming to us, they are territorial and aggressive with each other. They fiercely defended any moa hunter they had claimed, chasing off would-be intruders. We saw more than one feisty feathery dust-up break out between them!
Shortly before sunset he persistent cloud finally gave up being persistent and lifted, giving us our first relatively clear views up and down the valley, hinting at some of the spectacular scenery we didn’t quite manage on this trip.
Our evening was spent lying back against a log, enjoying a crackling campfire, gazing up into the clear night sky spotting satellites. John and Luke were lucky enough to spot what they both classed as one of the best shooting stars they’d ever seen.
Day 5
Tuesday 7th April – Lower Beans Burn clearing to Christchurch
The last morning of the trip once again dawned much the same as all those that preceded it. Cloudy, damp and a little drizzly. As we sat with plates of steaming hot porridge, our exit strategy was discussed. Or more correctly, our lack of one! We had made the classic mistake of assuming we would complete our circuit through to Routeburn shelter, and hadn’t considered the detail of alternate routes. In particular, we weren’t sure if there was any kind of track along the Dart river back to Rockburn shelter. Beyond the shelter the topmap shows a marked trail to Sylvan campsite. With no dotted line on the map up to that point, our fear was the first section would involve some very nasty bush bashing.
We agreed there was only one way to know for sure, and that was to go take a look. With only a couple of k’s of relatively easy walking along the well formed track ahead of us, we reached the Dart river in short order. Standing on the wide gravel bank at 10:30am, we were presented two clear options: To the right, a fairly long and possibly messy walk out. To the left, jetboats and inflatable rafts.
With very little hesitation or guilt, we turned left and walked up the river to the boats.
Half an hour later following an exhilarating blast down the Dart river in the jetboat, we were making our way across a pleasant grassy meadow to Sylvan camp. Lunchtime was still an hour off and we could almost smell the hot pies at the Glenorchy store.
Needless to say, after a few nights out in the bush, the pies and coffee did not disappoint. Possibly the most expensive pie ever bought, but also very very good.
Unfortunately the weather didn’t play nice on this trip, but we did get to explore a beautiful part of the South Island for a few days. It’s always a privilege to spend time in the back country, and always a privilege to spend that time with excellent human beings. While we didn’t achieve our goal of conquering the Five Passes, we did have a fun trip and will most certainly be reconvening in 2027 for a different adventure.
Footnote: For those who are curious, a little post trip research reveals that there is indeed a very good track from Beans Burn through to Rockburn shelter. Good to know!
The Moa Hunters 